How To Layer Your Skincare - Do's and Don'ts
, 3 min reading time
Learn how to utilize retinol, vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, and other skin care actives within your daily skincare routine.
It is a tale that those of us with sensitive skin know all too well, you add a new skincare product to your routine and your skin breaks out in an angry red rash. With the plethora of budget friendly skincare options these days, it's tempting to want to try them all. If you have skin problems that you are trying to keep in check such as dry skin, acne, rosacea, eczema, you are not alone. In fact, many of us struggle to find the perfect skincare routine that works for our skin type and also targets our individual skin issues, but did you know that certain actives in your skincare when used together can cause negative skin reactions or even stop others from working? Here are some important do’s and don’ts when it comes to layering skincare actives.
DON'T
Layer Vitamin C with Retinoids
Vitamin C serums increase the absorption of retinoids (retinol, tretinoin, adapalene, etc.) by the skin. Retinoids function more effectively when skin has a higher Ph (think, right after you wash your face). Vitamin C (or ascorbic acid) is acidic and has a low Ph so layering them at the same time can cause skin irritation.
DO
Layer Vitamin C with Hyaluronic Acid
Vitamin C and hyaluronic acid can help reduce the appearance of sun damage over time while keeping skin hydrated. Use this combo in the morning under your sunscreen. You can use retinoids while incorporating vitamin C into your routine by spacing them out. Use retinoid containing products before bed as UV rays from the sun can deactivate the active ingredient in them.
DON’T
Layer Retinoids with AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acid), BHA (Beta Hydroxy Acid), or Glycolic Acids
Retinoids, AHA, BHA, and glycolic acid are all chemical exfoliants (versus a physical exfoliant like a face scrub). They work by deeply exfoliating your skin. Using them in combination can lead to irritation and dryness.
DO
Layer Retinoids with Niacinamide and Hyaluronic Acid before bed for a hydrating power combo
Hyaluronic acid helps counteract the drying effects of retinoids while niacinamide helps reduce hyperpigmentation and redness. (Pro Tip: If you have rosacea, consider swapping out niacinamide for azelaic acid as it can be too irritating. Azelaic acid is great for combating acne and rosacea)
DON’T
Layer Benzoyl Peroxide with Vitamin C
Benzoyl peroxide causes vitamin C to oxidize and become less effective.
DO
Layer Benzoyl Peroxide with Niacinamide and Hyaluronic Acid.
You can use this combination at night with your retinol or tretinoin. It is a very common myth that benzoyl peroxide and retinoids used together render each other ineffective, but this is actually a very common combination dermatologists recommend for combating resistant cystic acne.
Most importantly:
Make sure to apply sunscreen in the morning as many of these skincare actives make your skin hypersensitive to the sun. Sunscreen also helps prevent skin cancer, sun spots, and aging. It is a crucial step in your skincare routine and should be worn everyday (even when it is not sunny outside!). The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) recommends that everyone use sunscreen that offers the following:
- Broad-spectrum protection (protects against UVA and UVB rays)
- SPF 30 or higher
- Water resistance